Dartmoor Way: Water Oak Corner to Trendlebere Down

Sunday 31st April 2024

After a cold and wet night I woke on the edge of Dean Moor in Dartmoor to overcast skies with the strong winds that had accompanied the rain earlier in the night now easing. Finally, I set off from Water Oak Corner onto grassy fields that reminded me of Easter Sunday last year when I had been in the Yorkshire Dales and the skies were similarly overcast, but I felt upbeat. The fatigue that I had felt the day before was now gone after a good night that saw me going to sleep when it got dark and waking up when it got light. It was great to be untroubled by alarm clocks and able to sleep for as many hours as my body needed while the clocks changing overnight passed by without me noticing, though my phone soon reminded me that it was an hour later than my watch indicated. The route of the Dartmoor Way took me across Lambs Down to the crossing of Dean Burn set in delightful woodland before a short climb brought me onto a road whose banks were lined with wildflowers, most notably primroses that were very encouraging for me as I walked along the road. When I finally turned off I passed through some fields and into Bilberryhill Copse, which was initially covered in wild garlic and then bluebells, though tragically it was too early in the year for me to see them in flower.

Beyond, an abominably muddy path took me past a farm and onto a road that led me into the market town of Buckfastleigh where I stopped at the Singing Kettle for a late breakfast. On this Sunday morning everywhere else was shut so this tearoom was a welcome place for me to rest and recharge. Onward, I crossed the River Mardle and turned up a long flight of steps lined with beautiful wildflowers to reach the ruins of Holy Trinity Church before a steep descent brought me back to the road after what seems like a complete waste of effort. With blue skies briefly appearing and the sun briefly breaking through I crossed the River Dart and headed towards the town of Ashburton, largely on roads, though not direct as I made several unnecessary diversions before finally descending into Ashburton where I stopped for lunch. When I resumed my walk along the Dartmoor Way I crossed a grassy bank above the waters of the River Ashburn, which I followed into the woodland of Whiddon Scrubbs where, beyond a fence, a brilliant display of woodland plants could be seen, all poised to come out in flower, just not at this time.

Once the path became drier underfoot, then it was a pleasure to walk through this wood beside the slender river, despite overcast skies and a lack of woodland flowers. Eventually the path moved away from the river and climbed on a wet, muddy track to reach Lower and Higher Whiddon which heralded the start of a prolonged section of road walking. From Owlacombe Cross a relatively busy road brought me to Halshanger Cross where I turned right for a quieter stretch of road walking that undulated along the foot of the moors until finally I reached Birchanger Cross. I had not been on the moors so far this day and instead there had been a lot of frustrating road walking, which was only enlivened by the primroses that lined the banks but this last stretch even lacked that so I was relieved when I finally reached Birchanger Cross, turned left and descended to cross the River Lemon. Another muddy path brought me up out of the valley and onto the open moor where I was overjoyed to be finally unfettered and able to see the widespread, though misty, views behind me and ahead past the gorse bushes onto the moor.

When Haytor Rocks came into view I was blown away by the enormity of them, so it was a shame it was so misty and windy and that a road passes just below so they were covered in people. The Dartmoor Way passes to the right, east, of these two granite outcrops, but I elected to pass between them before descending the slopes beyond to reach the Templer Way and the tracks of an old tramway, which is unusually formed of granite rails, shaped to guide the wheels of horse-driven wagons. At this point I was thinking it was too early to stop where I had intended, but it took me so long to follow the trail off the moor and around the edge of Yarner Wood, where the granite tramway continued, that by the time I reached Reddaford Water at the foot of Trendlebere Down it was about five o’clock, so I climbed up onto the moor and found a spot to camp with views looking over the Bovey Valley. Apart from a fleeting bit of sunshine, this day was very misty and overcast with a lot of tedious road walking, but there were many highlights including some great woodland and Haytor Rocks, which I’d never seen before, and overall this felt like a good day.

Dartmoor Way: Ivybridge to Water Oak Corner

Saturday 30th March 2024

After spending a few days walking through Dartmoor in 2020 I was keen to return and when I saw that Abbie Barnes of Spend More Time In The Wild had walked the Dartmoor Way in spring 2021 I thought that looked a good idea, which was strengthened when I saw the video on YouTube of Abbie’s walk. I actually planned to do the Dartmoor Way a year ago but then a High Court judge removed the right to wild camp on Dartmoor so I decided not to go. With that decision overruled on appeal I decided that this Easter I would do the Dartmoor Way, so I caught a train to Ivybridge on the southern edge of the National Park, where I had previously been in 2008 after traversing Dartmoor from north to south. With the sun shining I made my way beside the railway line to a road junction where I realised the Dartmoor Way passes, but the actual start was at the bottom of the hill. I considered ignoring the official starting point and proceeding along the Dartmoor Way from this point, but I wanted to do this properly so I headed done the steep road until I reached the medieval Ivy Bridge that lends its name to the town. Spring flowers greeted me and excited me for the prospect of my walk to come as I turned around and headed back up the same road that I’d just walked down. Soon I was hot in my fleece under the sunny skies as I climbed past the railway line, into Dartmoor National Park and eventually onto the open moor.

The ascent continued until I reached the trackbed of an old tramway where I turned right to follow it around the southern slopes of Western Beacon. I had planned to climb all the way up to the top of Butterdon Hill, but I was too tired so I kept to the Dartmoor Way gradually descending until I reached a small car park on the edge of the moor. A steep descent down a road brought me frustratingly back to the railway line and onto a busy road which I followed into the village of Bittaford where I turned left under an impressive viaduct and climbed back up the hill. Already, I was finding that the Dartmoor Way has a lot of seemingly futile and tiring ups and downs, but the good weather compensated with wild flowers, particularly celandines and primroses, decorating the banks. The agonising climb continued up the hill until I reached Wrangaton Golf Course on the edge of the moor where the walk continued beside the wall. The golf club was actually closed so no golf was taking place, which made me happy, though the boggy path was not so pleasing and I was glad when I reached the club house to start a prolonged spell of road walking. I knew there would be a lot of this on the Dartmoor Way so I was wearing my lightweight boots which I had worn on the Southern Upland Way last year. Celandines and primroses accompanied me beside the road, before crossing a number of wet fields to reach Lydia Bridge on the edge of South Brent.

The Dartmoor Way doesn’t go into the village so I diverted off to head into South Brent beside the delightful River Avon which was lined with wild garlic whose sweet fragrance filled the air. After buying some food I returned to Lydia Bridge to continue along the trail climbing steeply up the hill. Judging by the video, I’m sure Abbie missed out this next section by keeping to the road at the bottom of the valley, but I found it to the highlight of the day. A relentless climb eventually brought me onto Aish Ridge where I had views ahead of the high moorland while my track crossed a saddle and climbed over rocky ground to pass between the monumental stone gateposts of Corringdon Ball Gate. This led me into open moorland with little trace of a path so after a careful check of the directions I turned right to head across the moor, which provided me with some enjoyable, proper hill walking while the late afternoon sunshine illuminated the scenery around me across the Avon valley. The contrast between this stretch of moorland walking with the confines of road walking earlier was marked and added to the enjoyment of the former. Eventually I descended a steep, rocky path to the road at the bottom of the valley and soon I was at the popular car park beside Shipley Bridge where a tarmacked track up the valley passes spectacular rapids and small waterfalls.

This is a justifiably popular area and many people were coming down the valley as I made my way up until eventually I reached Avon Dam Reservoir, surrounded by open moorland that was very wet and with sketchy paths. Beyond the reservoir, at the crossing of the ancient Abbot’s Way I turned right to head over Dean Moor and as the light began to diminish I found a place to pitch up my tent. This walk was marred by being tired due to poor sleep, but I had been looking forward to this holiday for a long time. After the long wait through autumn and winter my walking season had finally begun and with great plans for the year I was eager to start. This walk was tedious while on roads, but great when I was on the open moorland and frustrating when I soon came back down, however I was thankful that the weather was good.